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Edith Head: Hollywood’s Costume Designer

Double Indemnity costume

Costume worn by Barbara Stanwyck as Phyllis Dietrichson in the film “Double Indemnity”, 1944

The Paramount Pictures Archive 

https://dvew4etk36zxg.cloudfront.net/CostumePhyllis.mp3

 

Visual Description: This is a three-piece outfit consisting of a white button-down blouse with bishop sleeves that billow at the wrist, a black-and-white houndstooth vest, and a black pencil skirt. The lapels of the white blouse are sharp and extend out over the vest.   

Extended Label Text: In Billy Wilder’s iconic 1944 film noir, Double Indemnity, an insurance salesman is roped into a murderous scheme when he falls for Phyllis (Barbara Stanwyck), a woman intent on killing her husband and living off the fraudulent accidental death claim. The scene for this costume was set in a grocery store, and the screenplay asked for a “simple house dress [and] no hat.” Instead, Head designed this black pencil skirt, white bishop-sleeved blouse, and a wool houndstooth vest. The clothing for Stanwyck’s character needed to look cheap and off-the-rack to fit the script, but they were all still designed in-house.  

DOUBLE INDEMNITY

Double Indemnity (1944). Barbara Stanwyck, Fred MacMurray. The Everett Collection 

 

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Traje usado por Barbara Stanwyck como Phyllis Dietrichson en la película “Pacto de Sangre”, 1944

El Archivo de Imágenes de Paramount 

https://d1p2sdq4k97jxk.cloudfront.net/021_TRAJE_USADO_POR_BARBARA_STANWICK.mp3

 

Descripción Visual: Se trata de un conjunto de tres piezas que consta de una blusa blanca abotonada con mangas de obispo que ondean en la muñeca, un chaleco de pata de gallo blanco y negro, y una falda lápiz negra. Las solapas de la blusa blanca son afiladas y se extienden sobre el chaleco. 

Texto de Etiqueta Ampliado: En el icónico cine negro de 1944 de Billy Wilder, Pacto de Sangre, un vendedor de seguros se ve envuelto en un plan asesino cuando se enamora de Phyllis (Barbara Stanwyck), una mujer que intenta matar a su marido y vivir del fraudulento reclamo por muerte accidental. La escena de este disfraz estaba ambientada en una tienda de comestibles y el guion pedía un “vestido sencillo de casa [y] sin sombrero”. En cambio, Head diseñó esta falda lápiz negra, una blusa blanca con mangas de obispo y un chaleco de pata de gallo de lana. La ropa para el personaje de Stanwyck tenía que parecer barata y lista para usar para adaptarse al guion, pero aun así toda fue diseñada internamente. 

DOUBLE INDEMNITY

Pacto de Sangre (1944). Barbara Stanwyck, Fred MacMurray. La Colección Everett 

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